Our traditional Brazilian dinner was delicious but the best part was the introduction and explanation of the name, Albergue So Por Hoje, which means just for today in Portuguese. Our host had done the Camino in 2018 and decided at that time to come back and open the Albergue. Since everyday is a new adventure it is a reminder to focus on the present, very much like my friend from Malta had reminded me weeks before in Cirauqui.
When it was time to leave, I was not looking forward to an urban hike, but unlike Leon, the city was soon behind making way for another beautiful sunrise.

Our host in Villares de Orbigo had told me to take a detour after Astorga to the village of Castrillo de Polvozares. I missed the turn off and soon could see it in the distance.

I decided to add the extra kilometers and took an abandoned road that headed that way. Luckily it took me to the entrance to the village. It was an ancient village with stone streets.


I could only imagine the racket an ox pulled cart would have made. The town was definitely worth the detour, but it was sad the lack of activity. No other pilgrims were present and none were in sight until the path merged back into the main Camino.




The further from Astorga we got the more beautiful the scenery







Our room in Rananal was well over one hundred years old, and the floor creeped with every step. It was soon time to walk and another glorious sunrise.

So far the path was easy.



We stopped in the first town at a bar to have coffee and a snack and meet new friends.


As we proceeded out of town each corner revealed a scene better than the one before.


We were on our way to the cross where you leave a stone and the burden it represents.


Having done our duty we were back at it. A bit solemn for a while, but the views were comforting.




But then the reality of the trail became the focus. Flashbacks to the AT and watching every step. Our pace slowed and the next two hours were less than fun.



Finally we arrived in El Acebo de San Miguel, with Ponferrada visible in the distance.


The stone village was extraordinary. The hills look like great running trails but quite a challenge day after day. Did you get any books at the bibliotheca?
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It looked closed, maybe for about a century.
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