Our zero day in Leon was slow and easy. We had breakfast in the apartment, planned our days from Sarria to Santiago, then headed out. The tour of the cathedral was spectacular. I know of nothing that compares to the stained glass; the placement and the stories behind it. Truly something more than ABC (another big church).

We then walked around, stopped in a few bars, had lunch and went back for a nap. About 5:30 we were out again. This seems to be the warmest part of the life day and things start getting active around 6:00.

We visited an outfitter and each bought another layer for warmth. Mainly for after walking as many of the meals are served outside.

Leon is an active city with more of an edge than Pamplona or Burgos. Not a bad thing, just different.

We turned in early and were anxious about the next morning as we were going to have to navigate finding a bus to the outskirts of the city for Becky. It is a common practice as not everyone wants to walk through Leon. We were relieved when Becky checked her phone and a friend who had left out the day before had emailed her all the details of when and where to find the bus. Once again, the Camino provides.

After waving goodbye as the bus pulled away, I was off on foot in the dark. One of the first sights was the Parador Hotel. I recognized it from the scene in “The Way”

Becky had found a Hostel to wait for me and after 5 miles of urban hiking I found her.

Becky was quite content waiting for me as it turned out the cafe she was sitting in was next to a Civil Guard base. So all morning she had been enjoying the view as these super fit young men in uniform had been coming in and out. Luckily I showed up before she realized she could do better, and I got her out of there as quick as I could.

Once we were on our way, we came across another marker meaning we were close to completing 500k.

There were several other pilgrim greetings

A closer look at the sculpture

But the one below was most touching. The image was in the back yard of a house and on the wall was fruit and candy for the taking. An older man appeared in the yard and implored me to take something and stamp my credential with a stamp he had made. No hidden agenda, he was just there to support the pilgrims. I stamped my credential, took a piece of candy, and we were on our way. Best piece of taffy ever.

So after a total of 12 miles we arrived at the hotel in Villadangos del Paramo. Not a normal stopping point, but it met our mileage parameters. The town seems to be a warehousing center for the nearby city of Leon, so when we realized we were once again at a truck stop, it was easier to accept. To give you some idea of the difference, first the view we had in Leon, and then the view from Hotel Avenida III.

Checking in was a trip. The gentleman working behind the desk was yelling into a phone and telling me he could not my reservation at the same time. But instead of being critical, I felt he may be in a position he was not quite suited to, but was working hard to keep his job. ( the lesson from Mansilla de las Mulas had taken hold). He finally tossed a key to me so we were set.

Since we had arrived about 1:00, we decided to go eat a quick bite at the diner we could see out our window before cleaning up and doing the laundry. We walked into the bar in front and once they realized we were wanting to eat, we were ushered into the back room. There must of been 30 tables, all with white paper tablecloths and a small round loaf of bread at each place setting. We were early by Spanish standards and the only ones in the place. We ordered dos cervesas and instead of two draft beers, he brought two glasses and a liter bottle of beer. Things were looking up. Next he helped us with our orders with Becky ordering beef stew and I ordered a traditional Leon pork dish that he assured would not disappoint. As we waited the place began to fill and by 2:00 was packed with truckers. We were having a real “locals” experience. And as advertised, the meal was great. I am not sure what all cuts of pork were used, but there was one I just couldn’t bring myself to cut into.

So with one of the 12 days to Sarria down, we rest up for the next day of adventure.