Not much was happening in Palas de Rei, so we left well before dawn. The church on the Camino path looked best lit up before dawn. There was enough light from the city that headlamps were not needed.

When dawn did break it was off to a beautiful start. We soon came upon a church that was stamping credentials, allowing us to get on of the two needed for each day once you reach Sarria.

Shortly after the church, the clouds were rolling and the air was becoming heavier with the moisture that would soon be rain. We sensed its coming and geared up with ponchos just in time. Walking in the rain is invigorating for about 10 minutes, then it is just a pain in the ass. No more pictures of that day. As we approached Melide, the historic bridge that leads into old town was under repair, so the detour led us to walking along the highway, adding to our joy of being in the rain. It was time for a “shortcut”! That day I learned that the alternate routes suggested by Google Maps are not always the most pedestrian friendly. We finally found our Pension and sat in our room eating the picnic lunch we had planned. The rain put a Real damper on the rest of the day so we were eager to leave the next morning. We expected the city lights would be enough even though we were leaving almost an hour before sunrise, but we were soon on a dark path with uncertain footing. Headlamp to the rescue! I had carried it for 450 miles and up till now had only used it to find my way at night to the bathroom in the Albergues. We were now real explorers!

Fog had been forecast but never materialized. So we were off to a beautiful day.

In Boente we got our credentials stamped at a church that dated to the 15th century and was in service to St James. We were given prayer cards and told about the history. One of the more moving moments so far.

Soon after a decision had to be made; stay on the traditional route or take the complemiento route. These are normally more scenic but longer. It appeared to add less than a kilometer, so we went for it. It paid off. Pretty scenery and a cool rock bridge.

We passed another milestone marker today: 40 kilometers or about 25 miles to go.

We are now in Arzua for the night. Great art:

Our hotel has the highway on one side and on the other side is a side street that is the camino where we will have dinner later:

But best of all, 100 meters from the hotel is a lavanderia that is next to the bar. Clean and DRY clothes!

So tomorrow we start the last 24 miles. With our excitement rising, I have a feeling it will be another headlamp morning.